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201 | Lasted only one year, genuine Electrolux lasted three to four years I bought this heating element a little over a year ago, in November of 2019. It's January 2020 and the dryer is throwing E64 code again. If you reset the dryer it still works, just doesn't dry the clothes as well as it should. I suspect that one or more coils of the heating element burned out. My dryer is almost a decade old and this is the third heating element I installed in it. The previous two were genuine Electrolux, one that the dryer came with from the factory, another one I installed myself. The Genuine ones lasted 3-4 years. This one lasted only a year, so the quality os definitely poor compared to a genuine heating element.<br /><br />There are three heating coils in that element. They are bolted to insulator pads that are in turn attached to a flimsy plate inside the tube. When the flimsy plate overheats it bends and the coils touch the tube (body of the element) causing a short circuit and the heating coil to burn out. If you dry heavy loads and don't clean your link screen religiously you will keep replacing heating elements.<br /><br />As a side note, the Electrolux dryer that uses this heating element is bad. I am not sure whether the flimsy plate is an oversight or "planned obsolescence", but these dryers are not designed to last more than 3-4 years if you use them often. My friends clean out their link screen annually and they are yet to experience any dryer issues. I clean my lint screen monthly and I am replacing the third heating element. | B07DNBZHRT | B07MKB2772 |
202 | Consummate waste of money!!! First, these have huge capacities. Second, the washer is horrible! The four-inch top on the agitator falls off regularly which causes the machine to sound like a box of rocks is being shaken wildly. Most importantly, it has ruined several expensive garments, linens and silks, that were caught underneath the agitator. I curse this machine regularly. Expensive piece of crap. My research on GE machines leads to the conclusion that, regardless of the price, they're manufactured to ensure quick obsolescence. Buyer beware. | B00W4KJO4M | B00W4KJO4M |
203 | Fix for planned obsolescence As many other reviews indicated, your Frigidaire is not the top of the line product. Ours came from the builder, so can't complain. Expect that your door bins will break . This replacement is an inexpensive replacement that should last until upgrading to a better refrigerator when it too breaks. | B00545AQSW | B00545AQSW |
204 | 2 Year Usage and Durability Review (Excellent!) This was installed on our LG WM2455WH in August of 2016. Our machine is used by our household an average of 3 times per day.<br /><br />We've had this LG front loading washer for 10 years now and I replaced the original bearings after 7 years. The replacement bearing, a Korean-made replacement, failed miserably after only 1 year (the train station-rattling symptom as described by others).<br /><br />After that fiasco I pledged to find a quality bearing, so enter the Nachi bearing and seal kit . Installation was a breeze and the fit was perfect for our LG WM2455WH. Moving beyond being pleased with the fit, I patiently waited to see how it would hold up compared to the cheap replacement and poor-quality OEM bearing that was obviously designed with obsolescence in mind.<br /><br />I'm glad to report that these bearings are still functioning smoothly and quietly as the day I installed them 2 years ago. There are no signs of tub-shake or noise which indicates bearing wear. I suspect these bearings are made of much higher quality metal materials compared the the Korean-built bearings.<br /><br />I will report further as time goes on, but I anticipate these will last longer than the normal 5-7 years of cheap OEM bearings. My advice is to stay away from Korean bearings and use Japanese-built ones as their quality is superior. | B00GSDY8ZQ | B00GSDY8ZQ |
205 | OEM and this aftermarket design are lacking reliability 101 ceiteria The impeller for this pump is driven by a very skinny brass finger that extends from the main pump shaft and sloppily fits into an exceptionally cheap plastic impeller design. As such, the small finger quickly fails metallurgically with just normal wash cycles in a few months worth of time. The pump is inherently designed for planned obsolescence which requires repeat purchases and pump replacements. Again, both the OEM and aftermarket pumps have this issue. As a result of that, I would recommend NOT owning a washing machine that uses this pump. This LG design is not conducive to having a reliable appliance with a long life. | B095JZSH3X | B095JZSH3X |
206 | LG planned obsolescence: DLG3788W dryer motor [clutch]... LG planned obsolescence: as with many models of LG dryers using the 4681EL1002A/4681EL1008A motors (like the DLG3788W), and actually many other manufacturers using these types of motors: the blower motor clutch springs are mounted on extremely thin "spike" mount-points at each end of the two clutch halves (which is cast pot metal: extremely fragile where thin). Those tiny spikes break off after only moderate use causing the spring(s) to fly off either into the moving motor or into the bottom of the dryer chassis. The loss of the first spring impairs movement of that clutch causing random occasions where the drum won't spin when the dryer is turned on (a loud buzzing noise occurs). Subsequent loss of the second spring causes the two halves of the clutch to fall apart into the bottom of the dryer chassis and no more drum spinning at all, ever...until the motor is replaced. Pathetic...<br /><br />Key to pictures:<br />#1 - LG-DLG3788W_blower-motor_clutch-spring_mount-point-intact-with-spring<br />#2 - LG-DLG3788W_blower-motor_data-tag<br />#3 - LG-DLG3788W_blower-motor_clutch-spring_mount-point-intact<br />#4 - LG-DLG3788W_blower-motor_clutch-spring_mount-point-broken<br />#5 - LG-DLG3788W_blower-motor<br />#6 - LG-DLG3788W_blower-motor_clutch-spring & mount-point | B00W4YE1MS | B00W4YE1MS |
207 | More planned obsolescence--very disappointing It's a cliche, but they really don't make 'em like they used to. I would expect to get more than three years out of a decent washer.<br /><br />I guess this isn't a decent washer.<br /><br />It worked quite well at first. I was happy to find something to fit in my tiny home. Unfortunately, I'm no longer so happy, as the washer is already beginning to die. So, we thought, all right, we'll fix a few things on it. Parts do wear, right?<br /><br />But there are no replacement parts to be found--and we've looked. Have we looked! Undoubtedly had we found parts, they would be part of this ridiculous cycle of obsolescence that corporations insist on upholding, where fixing something is more expensive than a replacement... or it's impossible to fix at all.<br /><br />Very disappointing. Don't buy this washer unless you're willing to have a few expensive operational years then put yet another useless thing into the landfill. | B078MGY2CS | B078MGY2CS |
208 | Wheel fell off after a few days Was able to superglue wheel back on. No trouble since. These dishwashers have planned obsolescence in my opinion. | B071JR6TXQ | B071JR6TXQ |
209 | 2 stars because its pretty, but dont stare at it too hard...she'll break. Wow. What a piece of junk. First off, when you pay $1800 for a range, it should work like an expensive Swiss watch. When you put "Made in the USA" stickers on it, you're shaming our country's craftsmanship.....or maybe that was a warning. Can you tell if it was built on a Friday?<br /><br />Got the stove in September. By October, the "safety" shutoff valve that only operates with current began to buzz. Its an electromagnetic plunger that will stop any gas feed to the burners if not powered. If you lose power, you cant use the gas. There is no override. Every time it was engaged, it would sound like a set of barber shop clippers and loud. I called Whirlpool and played them a recording of the sound, and the actual sound and they sent a tech who confirmed what I knew. It made me nervous to use the oven because this is a gas line component. The tech ordered the part, and proceeded to blow me off twice over the course of 4 weeks on replacement putting the repair AFTER Thanksgiving. I was forced to take it into my control. It took me all of 30 minutes to replace it, but I had to confirm the work would be warrantied since I had to DIY. I'm not sure how they expect to sell the warranties they push if they're not going to provide service at all. Tip: Hire people that actually care about doing a good job.<br /><br />Recently, the right 16k BTU mid-range burner valve froze closed (I appreciate it didnt get stuck open). I could tell the heat from the top oven was making something stick, but wouldnt you know that this happens a month out of the pitiful one year warranty they provide. The valve itself is $80, which surprised me. I guess I'll be on DIY duty for that too. This one failed right before Xmas dinner within its first year of use. If they start to get catchy, be ready to buy new ones. Its a stamped/cast part that cant be cleaned. Yay obsolescence and the throw away society!<br /><br />It doesnt get heavy use. Its me and the wife and we probably cook on it 3 times a week.<br /><br />The final nail in its coffin was when I washed the stainless knobs (which are too heavy for the valve spring actuation to work properly). Something in the back of the knob connection is water soluble because now none of the 5 knobs fit on the valve stems at all. I'm looking to source for lighter knobs so that the spring has a fighting chance.<br /><br />Cliffnotes: Avoid KitchenAid (or Whirlpool for that matter). They're made cheaply, they break easily and their service is awful. What kicks me in the gut is that I bought it through the "VIP" program. The one year warranty is a joke. They will constantly call, write, and email you about their warranty program, which costs about $100 a year (go figure). You'll need it if you buy one. 3 failures in the first year of use is unacceptable.<br />They kept asking me if I had used the self-clean feature and wouldn't say why they were asking. I'm seriously afraid to that feature now.<br /><br />Stainless? More like Gillette thin razorblade construction with an appetite for fingerprints. The thing is very hard to keep clean, and it can cut you good if you're not aware of the edges.<br /><br />Also, if you dont have a in-wall 4 prong plug set exactly at the back indentation where the book shows, forget it. There is no bottom cabinet room for any kind of mistake and will never sit flush agaist the wall. That cost me another $120 in copper wire, an outlet, box, and an entire evening. This aint like the ones that sit over top of the floor mount box you find in a lot of homes.<br /><br />What happened to the days with something like an oven could last 20 years without incident? This stove is dangerous IMHO. I would send it right back to them for a refund if they stood behind their products. | B004MEZ6WM | B004MEZ6WM |
210 | Beware of the small print! The tool does the job of separating the recyclable cup; it can be tricky to use if it doesn't cut through all the way on the first turn. The disappointing aspect of it is that it is only good, with average use, for six weeks; then another needs to be ordered. Talk about planned obsolescence! | B017XLW7I6 | B09TWWTX37 |
211 | Buyer Beware! Product Safety Issue, Defective Parts I purchased this refrigerator brand new from Best Buy on December 28, 2014. On April 20, 2018, upon opening the right-side refrigerator door, the top door hinge suddenly failed and the door collapsed. I managed to catch it with both hands, prop it up, and close it, thus preventing it from falling off completely and crashing to the floor along with food, glass jars and bottles, etc. Had I not caught the door just in time, it most certainly would've caused great damage to the door, the floor, and possible injury to myself and anyone else in the immediate area. My greatest concern is that my 3 year-old daughter sometimes opens the fridge door and the accident could've been much worse had the hinge failed when she opened it with possible severe injury and even death!<br /><br />On April 21, 2018, I brought this incident to the attention of Best Buy Geek Squad Protection hotline but to no avail. They said that the Best Buy 3-year warranty for which I had paid $70 extra recently expired on 1/28/18. They suggested I contact Samsung as the manufacturer of the product. I then called Samsung and spoke to customer service. After gathering the necessary info, the rep proceeded to inform me that the 3-year manufacturer warranty on parts was expired and that my only recourse is to pay for a service technician to come out and fix the defective part, or call the Samsung parts department, order the part, and attempt to fix the issue myself, essentially saying "you're on your own". This proposal was unacceptable to me so I then spoke to a customer service supervisor who essentially told me the same thing.<br /><br />My very last option was to send an email to the Samsung office of the president, which I did explaining the whole incident. I received a call on April 23, 2018 from a Samsung representative responding to my email complaint. The rep asked if there were any injuries or property damage related to the incident to which I responded that there were none. It was essentially a "Cover Your A**" call to ensure that they had no legal liability for damages. She then said that there was nothing Samsung was going to do to remedy the issue and that the manufacturer's warranty had expired after 1 year from date of sale, which is an even worse answer since apparently they only cover such a defect for only 1 year instead of 3 years as I was previously told by Samsung customer service.<br /><br />This is a $1,800 MSRP refrigerator failing to the point where it's practically useless after only 3 years of normal use (planned obsolescence perhaps?). To be clear, this is not an ordinary parts issue due to normal wear and tear like the seal on the door coming off or anything like that. This is a CONSUMER PRODUCT SAFETY ISSUE due to a MANUFACTURER'S DEFECT IN THE PART. Honestly, even if I got this fridge repaired (at my own expense), I don't feel safe using it anymore as the door failing and falling off again (or the other door failing) could very easily cause severe injury and even death to a young child.<br /><br />I've since reported this incident to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission and I intend to post reviews everywhere else that I can in order to warn people about this product and its potentially fatal defect. That being said, I realize that mistakes in manufacturing can and do happen and parts can fail. However, Samsung's response to their mistake and defect is utterly disgraceful and they should be ashamed. I was a long time loyal customer of Samsung owning cell phones, TVs, an oven range, and a microwave but I will never buy another product from them again! I suggest you do the same not only for the safety of your family but to send a message to giant corporations with abysmal policies and practices that they need to stand by their products and treat their customers right. Stand by your products, Samsung, it's that simple! | B00QGREE3U | B00QGREE3U |
212 | Planned obsolescence This is the second heating element we have had to install in our dryer. It is only 5 years old. The original heating element and the first replacement burnt out in the exact same place on the coil. Seems like planned obsolescence to me. We’ll see how long this second replacement lasts. | B07QJWX98P | B07QJWX98P |
213 | Kitchen Aid/Whirlpool Part #99003605 Inlet and outlet bezel cap I purchased a rather pricey, two-drawer Kitchen Aid dishwasher in May 2011, and it is March 2013 as it write this, so only 22 months have elapsed. I have had to replace this simple part 3 times now, within that period. The bezel cover attaches to the inside of the dishwasher tub, held by 4 small plastic tabs and, unless I'm mistaken, covers the fan assembly and holds a small fiber filter in place. When used without this bezel cover, the fan will break and/or leaks will ensue.<br /><br />The problem is that the four tabs, which are small, seem to break off or disintegrate rather easily, as a result of either heat, water, or jostling within the dishwasher -- or a combination of all three. Note that these are PRECISELY what happens inside of each and every dishwasher ever manufactured. Therefore, this is, in my view, a result of poor design and engineering and cheap parts quality.<br /><br />Who in the world would design and place a part inside of a volatile dishwasher (with water temperatures of 120-140 degrees, as specified by the manufacturer) held fast by four fragile, easily-broken fasteners? I would hazard a guess that it is someone who is interested in planned obsolescence. A smart fix would be to produce a metal bezel cover.<br /><br />Be warned. DO NOT PURCHASE any Kitchen Aid, Whirlpool, Jenn-Air or other dishwasher that contains this part, pictured above. It will bring you continual problems within months of purchase.<br /><br />Part #99003605 Inlet and outlet bezel cap | B002ABVLN2 | B002ABVLN2 |
214 | Does somebody make these out of METAL?? This part is great except for one thing, it's not made out of METAL. This is the third blower wheel I have put in this dryer. When you expose plastic to high temperatures, it gets brittle. If the wheel is slightly unbalanced, stress cracks will develop right where the blower fan attaches to the shaft. Eight months from now, I envision seeing the same damage as the first two times. Cracks and failure, right where the blower fan attaches to the shaft. I call this 'Scheduled Obsolescence'. A part that is cheap to produce and fails over time as to make money for the company producing said part. | B07P45ZLQH | B07P45ZLQH |
215 | This Washer Worked Great Until it Didn't! I loved this washer for just under two years, when suddenly, with no warning it flooded my entire kitchen floor. The sensor for the water level stopped working and it just kept filling with water until it overflowed. Luckily, I caught it in time before it would have caused some really serious damage to my house! I called a repairman over and he diagnosed the problem- a small hose in the back attached to the water-level sensor had come off- for $125 he repaired it. The machine worked for one more cycle and then the problem started happening again, and once more it overflowed onto the kitchen floor. I believe these machines are designed to fail after a certain amount of time so that consumers are forced to buy a new one (planned obsolescence). It's not the money that bothers me- for $300 I got more than my $ worth of washes for two years. It's the waste and environmental aspect that kills me. It's that these machines will end up in a land-fill or at the bottom of the ocean every other year! It's an environmental crime!!! I would rather pay more for a machine that will last 10 years than have to throw a cheap thing out every year. This is a crime against our poor planet!!!! Very disappointed in this manufacturer. | B083G9WVNC | B08M1JZP9P |
216 | American products and built-in obselescence As it turned out I ended up calling a professional. they said it was the controller board so they ordered and installed it to the tune of $250. the next appliance that went out is my Kenmore Electric Oven. I really think that there is a built-in obsolescence with digital components like this since it would be so easy to program the board to malfunction, let's say exactly two months after the warranty expiration date, which is 7 years. All of my appliances are going out. The stove, refrigerator and of course the washer. I expect the dryer to go next. Now the appliance industry now wants us all to buy their Smart "devices" which in turn gets Big Brother in every room of our homes. What a racket, right? | B00AYBL3GU | B00AYBL3GU |
217 | Failed after 13 months Makes rattling, grinding noise. Apparently not make to last... engineered obsolescence. | B09M92VHN5 | B09M92VHN5 |
218 | Good replacement for a poor design Exact part replacement.<br />Unfortunately this is a design for obsolescence by Whirlpool/Kenmore. Many people will just replace a 5 year-old machine rather than replace the $15 part. This repair would have been so much easier if the dryer had been made with removable back panel.<br />Since this is metal-on-metal, with no ball bearings, this part will wear out and need replacing again in 5 years. | B079RMVP1Z | B079RMVP1Z |
219 | Better than the original OEM icemaker!!! In a world where appliance makers design their products for planned obsolescence and import them from other countries, we now have excellent replacement parts options that are manufactured right here in the USA! Bravo | B07D4MDKY6 | B07D4MDKY6 |
220 | Trash! Lasted 10 months. Dreaded click-of-death followed by stripped out gears. Manufactured obsolescence. Second ice maker in a year. | B011P1OODQ | B011P1OODQ |
221 | Planned obsolescence Not sure if you can tell by the photo... But the metal broke off the drive shaft... Not an expert, but I've never seen another drive shaft that works in this manner... Seems to me that it's intentionally made to break... | B07YFDB6Y6 | B07YFDB6Y6 |
222 | Rack repair will cost you a fortune This dishwasher cleaned nicely in the beginning (if you use the recommended detergent). We have had it for two years. The adjustable racks break about every 3-4 months and the small plastic parts are over $20 each. I purchased it for the stainless interior, but wish I had gone with something simpler. The racks are designed for obsolescence. | B004138F40 | B004138F40 |
223 | Worthless, but what's the alternative? I've gone through four or five of these in the last few months. They're garbage. Most of them have imprecise cuts around the plastic clips causing the rack to not be seatable in the rail of the dishwasher. The ones that are cut correctly are cheap plastic pieces that end up cracking/breaking after 1-2 months. This is planned obsolescence at its finest. The alternative is to buy a new dishwasher which, like most home appliances made in China today, will also be garbage. The old saying is true. Garbage in, garbage out. | B0895G7PWC | B0895G7PWC |
224 | Poor quality, and planned obsolescence Purchased as a direct part number replacement to a Frigidaire Board that failed in 2019 that was only 6 years old. This one is starting to fail again in the same way and it has not even been installed a year. The fact that a major appliance like a wall oven will not last more than about 7 years is a total disgrace for an American name product. What was once considered the best quality on the globe, (American-made appliances), has fallen victim to planned obsolescence. That strategy did not work out too well for General Motors as the consumer moved to buy imported cars of better quality. | B00MHIC32Q | B00MHIC32Q |
225 | NOT OEM, SLIGHTLY WRONG DIMENSIONS, NO LABELS This is plain white plastic, no labels like "Optibin" as in the picture. The width of the recess that holds the glass is short by a few mm, so one end of the glass is sitting up on the edge; the glass will NOT fit flush. Part of the problem with the original is that it is held up by flimsy round pieces at the sides, and the original didn't fit well either, so the original weak plastic broke when the drawer was handled somewhat roughly.<br /><br />I recommend that nobody buy this unless the seller will verify the dimensions to the millimeter and you are sure that it will fit your glass and your fridge.<br /><br />I'm going to use it for now because it is (barely) holding the drawers and if we are very careful it should work for a while, plus the original was in pieces, but the glass not fitting is another chapter in the saga of crappy plastic designed by idiots. I'd call it a partial rip-off because I paid $130 for a cheap piece of plastic to replace a horribly designed piece of cheap plastic (in the one place that gets the most movement besides the door hinge: the drawers!). If this one breaks, and I'm sure it will as soon as a kid yanks on it, I'll just finally get the new fridge that is apparently overdue, but I will make damn sure it's not an LG brand. Idiotic design. Don't bother buying this except as a desperate stopgap measure such as when your wife keeps threatening to buy a new fridge because of LG's incompetent design and/or planned obsolescence. It will surely only remain functional for a short time, and the cost is ridiculous. | B00AF54TR0 | B00AF54TR0 |
226 | Do not run with these. I was not aware that such scissors even existed anymore.<br /><br />I had truly consigned such things to be the stuff of legends like that of Excalibur.<br /><br />In fact, I’m actually surprised that it wasn’t shipped in a large boulder and planted in my front yard rather than left at my front door.<br /><br />For behold, this is a quality metal shears the like of which can cut all manner of cloth without handle breaking or blades careening off the stoutest of armor.<br /><br />I’m in an anachronistic society club that holds tournaments and jousts, so on a lark I actually DID wield these scissors against an associate in full knightly habergeon.<br /><br />They withstood both mace and shield.<br /><br />I’ve never wielded such an instrument that compelled me to offer such high praise whilst simultaneously fearing accidental amputation of my own fingers.<br /><br />Thank you for this thrilling and very satisfying purchase.<br /><br />I shall pass it down to my progeny as I’ve a suspicion that this steely artifact might just outlive the whole of western civilization.<br /><br />Or at the very least obscure our ignorance of industry’s planned obsolescence and our bizarre fetishism with plastic and cheaply made goods which wear out with astounding regularity and predictability.<br /><br />Such ignorance will not speak well of us to future archaeologists. | B000UU6SR4 | B003XWO1W0 |
227 | Probably great for kids, disappointing for me [[VIDEOID:498be5913e9e5661a51f2f9e36e132b5]] I seem to be in the minority in not loving this glue gun. But it just doesn't perform to the standards I expect from even a mini glue gun. If half stars were an option I'd give this 2.5 but for the price (currently $19.99) I'll round up rather than down.<br /><br />I already owned 3 glue guns before I got this one, all corded, so I was really looking forward to having a cordless one, especially for times when I'm working with props or other large pieces and a cord is just reeeeally inconvenient. Unfortunately, it dispenses so little glue so slowly that it won't be at all practical for that, so there goes my primary use case.<br /><br />The way the stand is configured in relation to the trigger made it tricky to use even with my relatively small hands, so I can't imagine anyone with even slightly large hands having an easy time working with it. I'm not sure who modeled for the photo showing this gun being held, but with the stand folded back, there just isn't that much room to squeeze the trigger.<br /><br />The 55 second heat up time is a bit of an exaggeration. The gun was heating up for over 2 minutes before I started recording the video, and as you can see it was nowhere near ready to start dispensing glue.<br /><br />And once it starts, I'm honestly not sure where all the glue is going? For the test, I put in one of the glitter sticks included with the gun. You can see from the video that not very much glue was coming out. Somehow I needed to use a second, and then a third glue stick before I stopped seeing glitter, which should have resulted in a rather large puddle of glue. But it just... didn't? So I'm genuinely baffled there.<br /><br />Oh, about using multiple glue sticks, this will accommodate standard mini glue sticks but just barely. The diameter of the barrel is juuust slightly smaller than a standard mini glue gun, so you really have to push them in.<br /><br />On the subject of the charger, yes, it's USB. But it's micro-USB, tech that's been on a path to obsolescence since about 2017. Which means it's entirely possible the only item in your home that uses this type of cable will be this glue gun. Does that impact functionality? Not really, but it is a bit annoying to need a separate charging cable around just for a glue gun.<br /><br />I really wanted to love this. And I seem to be one of the few people who doesn't love it. I'm sure I'll find uses for it here and there, small projects where I need only fine lines or tiny dots of glue, probably just using the glitter sticks for embellishments. And because of the very-small-hand-friendly trigger & stand configuration, and how little most of this gun heats up compared to other guns, it would be a great starter glue gun for kids.<br /><br />But it certainly won't be the Go-To Glue Gun I had hoped it would become. | B09XD87Z85 | B09XD87Z85 |
228 | 'One RINGie dingy, two RINGie dingies. . .' [[ASIN:B006O0YXNU Ring Snuggies ~ Ring Sizer / Assorted Sizes Adjuster Set of Six Per Pack]] and B0014DGXU8, Original Ring Adjusters which comes in different sizes per pack. I bought these from Amazon, as well as 'yellow gold' metal ring adjusters last November. It was very cold inside the supermarket last fall; I lost another ring three times because my fingers shrank, but did nothing about trying these until last night when, with the advent of premature Spring (so far,) my thick ring began twisting on me.<br />The assortment offers these plastic findings in round shapes, with a round i.d. and o.d. as well as the one(s) I have tried, which are more elliptical than round. The shape on the inside of each is also elliptical.<br />At first, my eyes being what they are, I only saw the larger of two, and tried it, but after a night of being too conscious of it when I awoke to turn over, I checked the card contents, and found the smaller one.<br />My ring finger knuckle has always been large, but I had no difficulty installing the finding on the ring after I was already wearing it. And voila! it feels so much better that I plan on not being aware of it at all.<br />I have several rings, bought from the Q before the economy hit the fan (which means I bought my jewelry "right,") and no doubt will require more of these for them. It was always difficult for me to order the correct size for the intended finger. My late father was in the business, and I have a sizer in a box somewhere, but check out this department; Amazon has a tiny tape measure just for measuring fingers. (I have a man's hand, and cannot wear women's gloves, but small to medium men's gloves do the trick.)<br />I do wonder if the plastic wears out after some time. I will not be purposefully sleeping with those other rings, but even with regular every-day use. . . Will I need to order more today to account for planned obsolescence later?<br />(For the uninitiated, the word "findings" means something to those in the trade. Small pieces like these, pierced earring attachments, chain extenders, clasps, et.al. are known by that term.)<br />Thanks, Amazon, for the RINGie dingies. | B0014DGXU8 | B0014DGXU8 |
229 | Great fix for ol’ Tillie! I wanted a two-pack in case I messed up and cut the first one too short. (So now I have a spare!). This belt works perfectly on this ancient, 1879 “Early Improved Family” Singer treadle sewing machine of mine. Very happy about that, now to try and learn so sew on me-power! Amazing, 140 years later and it is still easy to fix as back in the day. No “planned obsolescence” with this. | B01LYQ71RB | B01LYQ71RB |
230 | Excellent value for money There are not many things one buys nowadays that are good value for money. Usually they have built in obsolescence - to the end of their warranty usually about a year. This little gadget looks as though it will last forever!<br /><br />I have always wanted a loupe but never got around to buying one until recently. I always fancied myself bringing out a loupe in a jewelers with a sort of cool flourish and then impressing the girl at the counter by talking about inclusions, color, cracks and repairs, and the cheap junk they are selling at top prices. Now with a bit of reading up and practice I can do that. But the main reason I bought it is to look at my own jewelery collection. To get to know my own diamonds for insurance purposes.<br /><br />How they can manufacture, market, and sell something like this for the ridiculous price of $4.95 baffles me. It comes in a cardboard box which is color printed, inside the box is an instruction sheet and a nice little sturdy hinged plastic container (that would probably cost a dollar or two to buy at Wal-Mart) inside the box is a key for the battery compartment and then this metal cased loupe. The metal looks like steel. The thing is heavy and substantial. Never having had any experience with loupes before I don't know anything about the magnification, but I understood from reading about them that this magnification is the right one for looking at jewelery.<br /><br />When you take it out of the box you open it like a penknife, there are two very bright lights at the back and a little switch to switch them on. It is easy, efficient, and a great little toy. I would say it is easily worth twice the asking price, and I got it on my PRIME membership so I only paid $4.95 total.<br /><br />THANK YOU AMAZON. | B0013E3DAG | B0013E3DAG |
231 | Need these plates This seems to be fine, especially considering Cricut no longer produces these for the Cuttlebug. Victims of obsolescence once again! Please keep producing these! I am expecting my “b” plates soon. Will order more!<br />Update: worked great!! | B01LWYBLWS | B09K79Y589 |
232 | perfect for repairing a spark screen fire pit spark screens seem to be engineered by the planned obsolescence guys from GM and this gauge is heavy enough to retie the screen to the frames - the snip is a bonus as I can use it for my guitar strings as well | B07Q9K6ZDL | B08NYDS39L |
233 | GETTING SICK OF SIZZIX You'd think this POS would last more than 1 year. When I used this to emboss a thinlit die with the proper sandwich halfway thru it started breaking, by the time I rolled it all the way thru it had broken into 3 pieces. You'd think at the prices they charge for essential accessories, that they wouldn't need to use planned obsolescence scams. | B001GP5OQ8 | B001GP5OQ8 |
234 | Six month life span I purchased this July 2016, and under a very modest amount of use, it stopped cold tonight. The light comes on, the mechanisms are not frozen but the motor is completely dead.<br /><br />Real shame, because I liked the machine; particularly I liked the mechanical stitch selectors that meant my settings weren't lost when little fingers flipped the power switch :<) but 6 months is noways an acceptable lifespan, and the cost to ship it back to the manufacturer would half pay for a new one.<br /><br />Planned obsolescence at its worst. | B00MNS60AQ | B00MNS60AQ |
235 | Glad I found these! Finally, strong and sturdy scissors. And they cut well, for my purposes, anyway! I had despaired of ever finding well made scissors ever again. I'm seriously debating buying a few, as these may well disappear from the market forever, as the goal these days of manufacturers is to make goods NOT TO LAST! Planned Obsolescence! | B0029PI164 | B0029PI164 |
236 | Not as sturdy as I'd like I've never met a sturdy yarn ball winder; this is my 3rd in 10 years, but it seems to do the job fine. As long as I expect the planned obsolescence of yarn ball winders, I'm prepared. | B001L8DL4C | B001L8DL4C |
237 | Product could be exellent if manufacturer spent another $1 and installed a quality on/off switch! This option has been invaluable in my use of the Optivisor! My eyesight is deteriorating with macular deterioration and this additional lighting makes everything much easier to read mail and other printed material. I have recommended it to othersI<br />I am downgrading my impression of the quality. This is my 3rd Quasar LED light accessory. The switch on the first one failed to work after about 10 months which is why I am buying this one . (I have a 2nd Optivisor with the Quasor LED accessory and the switch on it is starting to flicker some.) If the manufacturer would use a quality on/off switch, this accessory would last indefinitely. Instead, the switch used is about as cheap as one can buy! Using emails through Amazon I interacted with a rep of the seller but got no satisfaction about a replacement switch. I hope the manufacturer isn't using this cheap switch as "planned obsolescence"! | B0058ECQ46 | B0058ECQ46 |
238 | WARNING: WARNING: If you buy this, Cricut may cut off your ability to cut custom patterns when newer models come out . Google it, company is notorious for planned obsolescence. | B072VYPWM4 | B086V3DFWQ |
239 | Designed for obsolescence This co is HORRIBLE for customer service and their products are designed to become obsolete. Anyone who has used these products from the beginning knows EXACTLY what I'm talking about. Their software sucks, is changed, then dropped and you are left hAnging. | B0942SYJHY | B0C7NBF8PS |
240 | Built In Obsolescence I noticed that I’ve just ordered my fifth replacement for this part in less than seven years. Doesn’t speak well for the manufacturing quality and seems like it is made to be semi-disposable. | B001UYSI8G | B001UYSI8G |
241 | THE CUTTING EDGE Great value. I used to sharpen mine but for this price I just throw them away and get a new one. Planned obsolescence... | B07C95XD9H | B08R5QRWSQ |
242 | Four Stars It ssaves my expensive leather belts from obsolescence as I lose weight. | B000NK5VY2 | B000NK5VY2 |
243 | good quality for the price This is my second experience with sewing machines. My first was a toy Singer sewing<br />machine that I just returned because it was was dead on arrival (well, shortly after<br />actually). That was a Christmas gift for my daughter - a great idea, and though we<br />had not thought of giving her one ourselves (my wife does not sew either) she was very<br />excited about it when she opened it. Unfortunately when I called the Singer toy<br />sewing machine support line they recommended returning it because they suspected a<br />faulty part that they did not have in stock. That turned out to be a lucky break for<br />us.<br /><br />So we ventured to Sears to check out what else was available, where we saw the Singer 7442<br />and a few cheaper models. It seemed like it would be nice to able to do more than<br />just simple stitches, and the prices were not all that different ($140 - 200). A quick<br />look at Amazon at the 7442 lead us to this Brother. Because the reviews were slightly<br />better for the Brother CS6000i (and because I had just returned a Singer, and was not<br />all that excited about getting another of that brand) I bought the Brother. After using<br />it for a few days I am very happy with this purchase.<br /><br />I gave it five stars, because for the price it really is a very nice machine (which you can<br />read about in other reviews here). Easy to use, with lots of options that actually work<br />and do make it easier to use. It does seem to have high quality parts where it matters.<br />It is fun for her to have the wide variety of stitches, and the one step button hole feature<br />might be useful if she gets more into sewing.<br /><br />But nothing is perfect, and so here are the downsides that I did not see much written in<br />other reviews are:<br /><br />It comes with a cheap (bottomless) cover that can't be called a case. It can't even really<br />be called a dust cover since it has a hole near the top so you can reach the handle of the<br />machine to carry it. It doesn't hold the additional pieces of the machine either.<br />Brother should have just just saved that poor tree instead of including this 'case'.<br />I'll be storing the machine and the additional parts in the original box and foam packaging.<br />Although that is a quite a bit bigger than really necessary, it will provide much better<br />protection than the 'case'. It's too bad they didn't spend just a little more on the box<br />packaging and give up on the 'case' idea. They could have made the box a very functional and<br />protective storage mechanism if they just made it easier to pack.<br /><br />The machine is constructed with a fair amount of plastic (though it seems to be metal in the places<br />where it matters). The 25 year guarantee gives me some hope, but in general when I think<br />of something made of plastic with electronics in it, longevity does not come to mind. When<br />I was looking at the antique Singers (401a, etc), all made of metal, still working after<br />30-40 years, I felt a pang of anguish for our society that has shifted from making and buying<br />high quality long-lasting products in the US to off-shore produced planned obsolescence.<br />What a waste of resources, pity about pollution through the whole process, not to mention<br />the jobs. I will be surprised if the LCD and electronics in this system are still working<br />in even 10 years (I'm going to try holding on to the receipt for the life of the 25 year<br />warranty because I bet it will come in handy at some point). Maybe I'll tape it to that<br />cheap cover....<br /><br />The manual is quite good (without really knowing anything about sewing I was able to<br />get the machine set up and sewing in about an hour), but would be much better if it were<br />specific to this model. There are many places in the model where it says, "Or you can do<br />this if your model has this feature." Well, there are times when I'm reading it when I'm not<br />sure if my model has that feature, and it takes some time to figure it out. It really<br />seems like Brother should be able to print different versions of the documentation for<br />their different machines at not much extra cost. I would pay a few more dollars in<br />the overall price to have a customized user manual. On a positive note, every time I've<br />hit one of those sections so far, this model does have the feature. | B000JQM1DE | B01LY9ERQC |
244 | Works well but modest shelf life and inflexible manufacturer Stuff works great but had a limited shelf life of about 6 months for part A. The problem is I am casting small parts and seldom use it all before it goes bad. Performance of the product is good and does what they describe.<br /><br />My question is why doesn't Smooth-on offer smaller containers?<br />Why don't they allow you to only order part A or part B as part A is what fails earliest?<br />Is the shelf life length by design (planned obsolescence) or the nature of the product?<br /><br />So 5 stars for the product and 3 stars for shelf life and the lack of ability to buy in smaller quantities or the ability to buy just part A or part B. | B004BNF3TK | B09MZRNQ62 |
245 | Shears broke in half at first use These are horribly engineered: the metal only extends slightly into the plastic handles and that is exactly where they broke. If you were going to design a shears to break you would do it so that the metal ended a the point of most force upon the leverage and that is what they did. Stupid design or planed obsolescence: who knows, doesn't matter, save you money and buy all metal implements that will last a lifetime instead of five minutes when under pressure. | B08YJMRY4V | B08YJMRY4V |
246 | "Planned obsolescence" on the mat. Absolutely terrible. See pics The machine is neat, it promises to do a lot of things, it's relatively easy to use (check out some youtube tutorials; cool stuff). However, the mats are abysmal, to the point I don't find this product functional. When you buy the machine, you get a piece of blue cardstock and step-by-step instructions to make a little folded box. Since it's a guided tutorial, the instructions are, you know, easy. I didn't do anything weird. Pic 1 shows what the mat now looks like; the pattern is now permanently embossed. There's no "getting this off with a spatula", that's worked as far as it can go. I have used this mat for a second project and it too left its marks. It's an aged, damaged mat after exactly two cuts.<br /><br />Then I paid 30-some for a low tack mat. Set the blade pressure to 1, which is what it said for printer paper... maybe my paper is extra thin, but this is what my mat looks like after ONE cut (second pic). Sliced right through in places. Thirty bucks set on fire: I'm sure the Finance Dept at Brother is very pleased, but I'm in the market for alternatives and wouldn't recommended Brother to anyone. | B08HJH84NP | B07TV8NVFL |
247 | Have bought many times Glad I discovered this many years ago. I first used it to extend (or rather multiply) the life of Apple-made iphone chargers -- you all know what I mean! The cable soon frays at the USB phone connector. I've now had two such chargers more than four years -- one I had to strip off the Sugru and reapply because the cable also frayed where the Sugru ended. I'd rather buy Sugru than buy repeatedly from companies who build in obsolescence into their products. Plus the colors look cool :) | B01M65432U | B01M65432U |
248 | The gear fit the vertical shaft and meshed correctly with the main horizontal shaft gear. It was a learning experience. I was given a Singer Model 477 sewing machine and was told that if I could fix it, I could keep it. The main shaft would not rotate due to damaged teeth on the vertical shaft top gear. Replacing the vertical shaft top gear was not an easy task due to being frozen on the shaft because of the sewing machine's age. Once installed, the main shaft when rotated by hand would also rotate the vertical shaft meaning that the gears meshed properly. Since the history of the machine was unknown, it turned out that the motor was once overstressed, lost its original torque, and the motor could not be replaced due to obsolescence. | B07PVYFRFQ | B07PVYFRFQ |
249 | planned obsolescence Through my life I've noticed this pattern: company makes name for itself with good product; then after acquiring sufficient marketshare, the product's quality declines.<br /><br />My mothers Singer, which I learned how to sew on over 40 years ago, still works. It is sturdy, and came with a hard-shelled case.<br /><br />But Singer decided that for its model 4423, a cloth cover would be sufficient instead of a case. It sports some gizmo that's supposed to thread the needle for you, but fails to do so. The plastic case hides essential areas where the thread gets jammed, and after a thread break, there's no way to visually inspect and ensure that the mechanism is clean and clear of old thread to prevent it jamming again...<br /><br />This Singer company seems guilty of planned obsolescence -- deliberately manufacturing a poorer quality machine than what they could, so it won't last as long and they can sell you another or milk you on repairs...<br /><br />Corporate obsolescence is so enraging that it can make someone snap and "go postal"... Thus, Singer along with other guilty manufacturers are partially responsible for the violent and tragic consequences that can occur when someone "goes postal" because their brand new sewing machine was garbage even still in the box.<br /><br />The Janome at least included an detailed instruction manual... but the Singer just had an illustrated "quick start" fold out -- not even a proper manual...<br /><br />I wouldn't have purchases a 4423 for myself... but someone gave me one for Xmas, and I don't like it. | B003VWXZQ0 | B097FPLKP2 |
250 | Planned obsolescence by putting non-stainless steel at a crucial spot: the connector. The Titan kitchen shears worked nicely for a while, but became increasingly STIFF. These are shears that one cannot separate into 2 parts for cleaning as for many similar products. I assumed that the joint was just getting dirty. Today I found out what the real problem was when a little plastic cover fell off: Titan placed a corrodible connector at the pivot point of the shears and hid it with a plastic cover. The product is otherwise made of fine quality stainless steel and keeps a good edge. But I hate buying and rebuying the same poorly made product or one designed to fail prematurely, and thereby filling our country with landfills. I also do not approve of hiding the designed-in defect under a plastic cover. | B0046EBW1C | B07VFVRXMW |
251 | Great black ink, long lasting pad. My wife is the stamper in the family. In 1998 she bought this ink pad. She has tried other blacks but this is the one she swears by. Now, after all this time she needs to replace the ink pad. I'm impressed. In an era of planned obsolescence, this is remarkable. | B003OCT7DW | B003OCT7DW |
252 | Won’t work without app First off it works way better than what I had before, the Cricut mini iron. That said having to create an account and download an app to use what is essentially AN IRON is ridiculous and inequitable. If you get this and don’t have internet connection you can’t set it up to use it! Not just the fancy auto settings, but the iron itself. It’s a data harvesting/ planned obsolescence technique I hope doesn’t catch on. If Cricut goes out of business or decides not to update this app or support this device, future owners will discover they can’t use it and it will end up in the landfill. | B09TFZFJ59 | B0BN6BXM74 |
253 | Very comfortable +++: The soft metal nose bridge with rubber makes all the difference for fit and comfort!<br />++: motion adjustment stoppers don't wear out easily, like other designs<br />+: does not use weak coincell batteries. But could use 2 AA, instead o 3 AAA batteries. AA are easier to get/reuse.<br />-: have not run into any minus yet. I love it so far!<br /><br />=========================================================================<br /><br />Oct 2022 Update:<br />I have two of these type that I've bought at different times. After years of use, I came to learn how to take better care of them. Yes, I know, nowadays nothing lasts forever, but one can feel otherwise. So here is my experience and how to avoid it: After long sustained use, the side arms would break. This plastic will stress from so much use, that eventually it will break right before the end adapter, to change from side ears to the elastic band. The issue seems to be caused by the end user, intuitively trying to 'open' the side arms right before placing it on the head. To make these glasses last, one has to consciously NOT-OPEN the arms at all (the stiff arms are mean to provide some slight pressure to the head to stay in place). It should be possible to make them last, and I could provide feedback if I bought replacements, but I immediatly fixed them as they broke. Both of my units broke after over two years of use, and I plan to use them until their plastic lenses are not longer clear (Lol). In any case, I don't know if this is because of a poor or oversight in the design, or if it's just part of design-obsolescence (meaning the unit is not supposed to last this long, and therefore there is no need to make the side arms comply with stronger bending-stress requirements).<br /><br />Hope this helps. I still like these glasses , now better than before, because I can still continue to use them (it was fairly easy to fix, and for that, I thank the designer)<br /><br />BTW, I used a soldering iron to heat metalic staples. One repair has regular paper staples, the one in the photo has the bigger staples used for cardboard, etc. The one in the picture was fixed backwards, as I should have inserted the staple from the inside instead, to minimize the arm giving to outward force. | B071VZ4X6P | B071VZ4X6P |
254 | Necessary but short-lived Good product but they warp and etch quickly. Even if one does the ABCD rotation they have built-in obsolescence. | B01GUG06BU | B01LY8QBAH |
255 | Don't drop the screws down here event the hard replace I have an old Toyota built in obsolescence on the arms this cured the problem I'm glad somebody made this it was very handy | B015YD1US8 | B015YD1US8 |
256 | PLANNED Obsolescence. FAILED JUST AFTER WARRANTY. COMPLETE GARBAGE. Can I give zero stars? As in 1 star because, yes they work... but -1 star because, by design it will fail after 1 year.<br /><br />2011 Ford Explorer V6 Eco-boost engine.<br /><br />I've been gullible enough to purchase these Chinese garbage electronics twice now, and on both occasions they failed almost to the day 1 year after installation. Complete junk. Do not give these companies the business who purposefully sell products with planned obsolescence. I am so, so tired of dealing with this kind of crap when purchasing ANYTHING made in China. Unreal. | B01FADHYA0 | B01FADHYA0 |
257 | Buyers beware Bought this 7/2016 now 6/2018 it no longer works. By going on YouTube I found out it was bad diodes. Contacted Century and they said by the time you buy the parts and pay shipping you’re about 1/2 way there to buying a new charger. Parts were $11.75 and shipping was $8.65!!! It appears that this charger has built in obsolescence after reading other reviews. I had other chargers that lasted decades after numerous uses but not this charger. I always kept this charger in my garage and when I did use it I was careful to keep it out of the weather so the charger still looks brand new. I’d stay away from this brand of chargers. I’ve enclosed a picture of the charger even though the cover has not been reassembled yet as I’m waiting for my parts to arrive. | B0009IBJCQ | B0009IBJCQ |
258 | Stop working in about a year First off I did not forensic test with a RFID sniffer BUT I tested realworld a home security fob x 5 each, 7 each (3 nanufacturer) key fobs from distance and right on top of and a Galaxy latest smart phone. There were no auto detections, no functionality actions and phone basically disappeared from my net work and no calls could be made to or from my phone. Extremely satisfied and would highly recommend. Also tested a Faraday box which perform equally well and a different manufacturer key fobs cover which failed every single test listed above.<br /><br />Update : Bought three sleeves and 2 more fob pouches. Tested all as before and 100% blocking. VERY SATISFIED. FOBS dissappear to car just simply placing in pouch like majic and immediately am told Fob outside detection range! Secure!<br />Update June 22 lost my first one. My Hellcat can now sense my FOB when I approach the car and unlocks while FOB is in the pouch. No sign of any damage or ware . The only thing I noticed is it is softer? Ordering 2 new ones. Sits on my console , stored in a Faraday box, only seldom in my pocket?<br /><br />Update now at a little over a year both my FOB pouches clearly are seen and detected. Very minimal pocket uses I am ordering a new pair. A years security is better than nothing but neither pouch shows any ware or trauma? Still will keep in a Faraday box and test each time I go to use them. A ok investment but manufacturer Does Not reply to inquires. Purchased these 2 that failed in June of 22 so if manufacturer customer service looks at their reviews please respond. UPDATE reordered and retested and my newest work perfectly once again. Planned obsolescence or state of manufacturing? Essentially every approach is a new test but was eventful that both failed at the same week? Still will use the product and keep a fresh unit on the side. | B01H1C21O2 | B01H1C21O2 |
259 | Worked as Advertised I'm happy that third party companies like this one continue to produce parts for older well built vehicles that are not supported by the original manufacturer. I'm tired of the "planned obsolescence policy" where consumers are forced to purchase new products long before the current product is end of life from a service perspective. Older trucks when they were built well are still around providing near flawless service and yet they are not supported by the manufacturers who are now making junk that cost on average $60,000 new. Thanks Clipsandfasteners. | B0040D0NNW | B0040D0NNW |
260 | Norcold built in obsolescence! Norcold door replacement. Needed new seal but forced by Norcold to replace all 4 doors. Price was best on the market! $2000 later, my refrigerator still not fixed! These doors do not come with hinges, etc. | B00T3BJJB8 | B00T3BJJB8 |
261 | Norcold built in obsolescence! Norcold door replacement. Needed new seal but forced by Norcold to replace all 4 doors. Price was best on the market! $2000 later, my refrigerator still not fixed! These doors do not come with hinges, etc. | B008KWOBBE | B008KWOBBE |
262 | Norcold built in obsolescence! Norcold door replacement. Needed new seal but forced by Norcold to replace all 4 doors. Price was best on the market! $2000 later, my refrigerator still not fixed! These doors do not come with hinges, etc. | B012ZZIZ0O | B012ZZIZ0O |
263 | Norcold built in obsolescence! Norcold door replacement. Needed new seal but forced by Norcold to replace all 4 doors. Price was best on the market! $2000 later, my refrigerator still not fixed! These doors do not come with hinges, etc. | B008KWOAYM | B008KWOAYM |
264 | Norcold built in obsolescence! Norcold door replacement. Needed new seal but forced by Norcold to replace all 4 doors. Price was best on the market! $2000 later, my refrigerator still not fixed! You have to purchase each part individually. Does not come in a kit! | B008KWOSVC | B008KWOSVC |
265 | Great light output over factory fog halogen, but mods were required in my bulb housing Two issues with the fitment in my '06 Dodge Magnum with reflector-type foglamp bulb housing:<br /><br />1. The included O-ring was too thick, preventing it from fully seating in the flange. I didn't want to use any grease in this area to avoid off-gassing caused by heat, which could cloud the inside of the housing. I re-used the old halogen bulb's O-ring and the seat was immediately better.<br />2. Couldn't rotate the bulb to lock it in due to the thickness of the ears. Had to dremel a chamfer on them in order for it to fully rotate inside the housing flange.<br /><br />Also, the plastic electrical connector is very brittle where it attaches to the metal housing. Mine snapped without very much effort at all. Luckily I was able to super-glue it back together.<br /><br />Two stars lost for the above two defects.<br /><br />A third star lost because obviously with all these mods, warranty is voided. Maybe that's done intentionally, sort of like planned obsolescence, designed to keep a company profitable.<br /><br />They got one star back because the brightness is exceptional. Can't speak to longevity til I get there. | B07SBL71PR | B07SBL71PR |
266 | A Great Combo of Form and Function Amazing. These tires really grip both on and off road. Mine had dry rotted (built in obsolescence by the Mfgs.) and rather than buy a like tire, I decided to go with these. Glad I did. They provide a smooth ride and also look good. | B077H2BNB9 | B077H2BNB9 |
267 | Great, while it worked but it died after not much use. No live support! Well, my husband LOVED this thing until it quit, got four years of very light, occasional use out of it and then when he went to charge it, it just clicked. Nothing online or in the manual about that problem, tried calling COBRA customer service but, no big surprise, you aren't able to talk to anyone, they insist you "email them" instead. Another case of planned obsolescence no doubt, now I'm off to search out another similar product but one made by an entirely different company, for sure. | B002HQYXNK | B002HQYXNK |
268 | Good quality, sturdy net that has stood up to my abuse I love this cargo net, and have really abused it. I load my cargo hold to the max, and a lot of weight can hit this net. I am surprised that this has held up as well as it has. So far, I see no indications that it will not continue to do so far into the future. Take that built-in obsolescence! | B00SEMFVBO | B00SEMFVBO |
269 | Packaging was damaged These seem to be pretty good so far, although I've only had them installed for a couple of days. They are noticeably brighter than the 5 year old OEM bulbs that were installed in my 2008 4Runner. For that reason, I recommend replacing both bulbs at the same time. Otherwise you might end up with one bright and one dim bulb. We'll see how long they last. I suspect that there's some functional obsolescence built in like with most products, so I'll report back if they don't last for a reasonable amount of time. They're very easy to install, the easiest of any car I've owned. Take your time, work carefully and don't touch the bulbs with your fingers, and you should have no problems with the install. The packaging was damaged when I received these. Naturally I was concerned that they may have gotten banged around too much, but they appear to be working properly. | B00Y9VVBZ4 | B0C68PRTZ4 |
270 | Junk! Leaks, On/Off Switch Sticks I bought one, it lasted about 3 mo, swapped for another, also lasted about 3 mo.<br />Built-in obsolescence if I ever saw it!<br />The slider on/off switch is very difficult to move on both units. The shower head started to leak after about 2 months of use and then by month 3 more water is leaking out than is coming out of the jets. | B00192KYFO | B00192KYFO |
271 | Used to work, but it no longer does anything!!! This used to work really well, but now I have to put my phone on top of the antenna to get any sort of reception. They advertise that you will get reception in your car, but this is not the case. There is definitely service in this area, but I can only get it if I have my phone touching the interior antenna. Gee…that is great! This thing is completely pointless. It used to work really well so I’m guessing that they programmed obsolescence after 2 years or usage because this thing is just that…obsolete and useless! | B07PDVTMM6 | B07PDVTMM6 |
272 | Stitching failed within 3 months Purchased this classy and waterproof bag for my guy's new car. Love the size and clever construction, and even considered getting another one for our truck. We used this gently, then the stitching gave out within 3 months--and outside the return date. Was this designed for planned obsolescence? Perhaps not, yet the bag's a 'Fail.' | B00O3GNURM | B00O3GNURM |
273 | Spot on fit. (Dorman Warranty included in review) First the warranty:<br /><br />DORMAN LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY<br />At Dorman, we take pride in the quality of our products, and your satisfaction with their performance. Thus, Dorman warrants its products to be free from defects in material and workmanship under normal use and service. As your exclusive remedy, Dorman will replace free of charge any Dorman product that in Dorman's reasonable determination does not comply with the foregoing warranty. This warranty is voided by non-recommended use, improper installation, or physical damage. In addition, Dorman will not be liable for any incidental or consequential damages and your exclusive remedy shall be replacement of the product that did not comply with this limited warranty.<br /><br />This is the second driver side Regulator and motor I have replaced lately.<br />The first one was a low cost part from Auto Parts Warehouse that had a year warranty and broke at one year and 15 days (Planned obsolescence anyone). The fit was bad and the window did not seat right when raised.<br />This part was $20.00 more ($61.00), actually fits (Auto Parts Warehouse is asking $120.00 for it), the window seats properly, and it has a Lifetime Warranty.<br />I just installed the Regulator, so cannot say when or if it will break, but will post an Addendum and reduce the rating if this happens.<br />Today (01/21/2017) the passenger side went out, but the drivers side is still going strong. Will buy the Droman part for the passenger side. | B000C11JIY | B000C11JIY |
274 | Far superior to rubber blades Somewhere around ten years ago I stumbled across Silblade wipers in an auto parts shop and bought a pair for my Chevy Blazer. Normal rubber blades would last me maybe 6 months in the extreme heat in Houston, so I figured it was worth a shot. I drove that car until basically everything on it stopped working, except that pair of wiper blades. Over about 10 years they outlasted the entire car. Remarkable.<br /><br />There is a reason you won't find Silblade in a lot of auto parts stores--it's because those shops count on every car owner coming in and putting down $30-40 every 6 months to a year to replace their rubber wiper blades. Planned obsolescence--it's easy money. I don't do that anymore. These days, I buy one car every 10 years and I buy one set of Silblades for that car across it's entire lifespan.<br /><br />Trust me, you will not regret buying these wiper blades. The fact that I am even spending 10 minutes to write a review on Amazon about *wiper blades* should be reason enough. | B00029X5VK | B00AZRARBU |
275 | Short lifespan! 6 month lifespan! Engineered obsolescence! Shame on you Sylvania! Will never buy anything from Sylvania again! | B000M5W25E | B000M5W25E |
276 | The last floor jack you'll need to buy Every HF jack, 5+, that I've owned over the last 30 years has failed after a few years of home use.<br /> They've either leaked fluid, or leaked down, or both. HF refuses to fully use u-cup seals in their hydraulic designs for planned obsolescence purposes; instead, they use o-rings, save 50 cents, they fail over time due to insufficient machining tolerances- and you're off buying another jack; I'm done with that. I've had this HW jack for almost 10 years and no issues. It uses u-cup seals and a proven, ~50-year-old, pump design; seal kits are readily available. It's very heavy, very HD construction, but it rolls surprisingly well, because of the high-quality wheels and casters. This jack is no longer all USA made, but because of the proven design this doesn't matter to me. Yes, it is more expensive than the other brands. But if you have an issue in 20 years, there's a much better chance for you to be able to buy a seal kit vs any other brand, except maybe AC. I liked this jack so much that I recently bought a second one- this time from Amazon. | B000RFR498 | B000RFR498 |
277 | Planned Obsolescence JUNK The factory compressor this is replacing lasted 80k miles before the bearing failed (I replaced it). At 95k the electromagnet failed. No clutch rebuild kits available, so a new compressor is the only option. I can't wait to replace this one in 100k miles again.<br /><br />Contrary to what was said in some answers, mine did come with oil in it, so it does not come bone dry.<br /><br />5 Stars to "NFADA WHOLESALE DIST" who sold this unit for $270. Great value. I had my a/c back for under $300 all said and done. | B0016IWQNY | B0016IWQNY |
278 | How to use a brass scraper. These things aught to come with instructions. Maybe some of those fancy ones do. If so, follow their instructions, but take a look at mine for any additional tips.<br /><br />I haven't found anything that can beat the brass blade for frost or light ice. Even slightly heavier ice. How heavy? With use, you'll learn what is to much ice because it will damage the blade. But, the brass blade will stand up to heavier ice than any plastic blade. And, clean the frost and ice better. If the ice is too heavy, you need one of those plastic tooth things to break up the ice. ( I've never used one of those fancy ice-dozer things, or what-ever they're called, so I don't know how well they work.)<br /><br />While I've written a lot here about keeping the brass blade in shape, it really isn't very difficult. If you don't want to do this, just throw a damaged blade away, or better yet, give it to someone who will fix it and use it. Then, because they are so good, go get yourself another one. Also, all of this writing makes it seem like a brass blade is easily damaged. It isn't. It's much more durable than a plastic blade. Since I've learned the limits of the brass blade, I don't think I've put a nick in the blade for close to two decades. As explained below, I just run a file over it every once in a while to keep it in shape. By 'in shape' I mean a nice 90 degree angle from the flat side and the edge. Also, the edge is straight and flat.<br /><br />I've used a brass scraper for 40 years. Only once did I put a 'light' scratch in a windshield that easily buffed out. And that was because I did not keep the brass blade in good shape. There are only two things about a brass blade that I've seen that could scratch glass. That is if there is a nick in the blade, or the corners of the blade haven't been rounded off.<br /><br />If you do damage the blade, you can fix it, or get a new one. Before I learned not to, I used a damaged blade many times and it did not scratch the glass. Until one day it did, and I learned to keep the blade in shape. My 'light' scratch didn't take too much to fix. Just a clean rag, some very fine polishing compound, like jewelers rouge, and a little elbow grease to buff it out. Probably wasn't really a scratch. Just some kind of mark that I mistook for a scratch when it didn't rub off with my finger.<br /><br />How to keep the blade in shape:<br />At the beginning of each season, run a file over the edge of the blade to make it straight and flat. If the blade is already in good shape, one or two passes should do it. Next, lightly run the file over each corner in a rounding motion to knock off the sharp corner. Last, run two swipes of the file flat on each side of the blade to knock off any burrs. When you run the file on the sides, if you notice any high spots that would show up as lighter and shinny, there may be a nick in the blade that needs more attention. Depending on how much you use the scraper, and how hard you use it, you may want to do this a couple of times during the season to keep the blade in shape.<br /><br />If you nick the blade:<br />Stop using the scraper right then.<br />If you put a nick in the blade, you have to file the sides of the blade until the nick is flat. It generally doesn't take much, and isn't hard. The hardest part is keeping your file flat along the flat side of the blade. But you'll find a way. If the nick is large, it might take, I don't know, 10 or 15 passes on each side. By large, I mean larger than a couple of grains of salt. I don't recall ever making a nick larger than about one grain of salt. After the sides are flat, run the file over the edge of the blade to make sure it is flat and straight. 2 to 4 good level passes should do it. A light pass or two to round off the corners, and a light pass or two on each side to take off any burrs. As long as the nick is no larger than about 1 or 2 grains of salt, you don't have to get the nick completely out. Just make sure the sides are flat with no high spots that could scratch. If in doubt, get yourself another good brass scraper.<br /><br />There are two reasons I take off one star for brass blade ice scrappers. One, they 'apparently' can 'LIGHTLY' scratch glass if not kept in proper condition. Two, the handle on these things always seem to break. That's the only reason I've ever replaced one of these, the broken handle. The one I'm using now, the handle has been broken for about 7 years. But, I can still use it, and I figure why get another one, the handle will just break anyway. My guess is that the breaking handle is the 'planned obsolescence,' because the blade can last forever with proper use. Because they are so durable, you tend to think they can break away any ice. But, they do have their limits.<br /><br />If you buy a brass blade scraper, and can figure a way to reinforce the handle, you just might make yourself a scraper that can last 50 years. No kidding.<br /><br />P.S. I should add that the manufacturer has to make the blade thick enough to be durable, yet thin enough to be flexible. | B009OGP48E | B009OGP48E |
279 | How to use a brass scraper. These things aught to come with instructions. Maybe some of those fancy ones do. If so, follow their instructions, but take a look at mine for any additional tips.<br /><br />I haven't found anything that can beat the brass blade for frost or light ice. Even slightly heavier ice. How heavy? With use, you'll learn what is to much ice because it will damage the blade. But, the brass blade will stand up to heavier ice than any plastic blade. And, clean the frost and ice better. If the ice is too heavy, you need one of those plastic tooth things to break up the ice. ( I've never used one of those fancy ice-dozer things, or what-ever they're called, so I don't know how well they work.)<br /><br />While I've written a lot here about keeping the brass blade in shape, it really isn't very difficult. If you don't want to do this, just throw a damaged blade away, or better yet, give it to someone who will fix it and use it. Then, because they are so good, go get yourself another one. Also, all of this writing makes it seem like a brass blade is easily damaged. It isn't. It's much more durable than a plastic blade. Since I've learned the limits of the brass blade, I don't think I've put a nick in the blade for close to two decades. As explained below, I just run a file over it every once in a while to keep it in shape. By 'in shape' I mean a nice 90 degree angle from the flat side and the edge. Also, the edge is straight and flat.<br /><br />I've used a brass scraper for 40 years. Only once did I put a 'light' scratch in a windshield that easily buffed out. And that was because I did not keep the brass blade in good shape. There are only two things about a brass blade that I've seen that could scratch glass. That is if there is a nick in the blade, or the corners of the blade haven't been rounded off.<br /><br />If you do damage the blade, you can fix it, or get a new one. Before I learned not to, I used a damaged blade many times and it did not scratch the glass. Until one day it did, and I learned to keep the blade in shape. My 'light' scratch didn't take too much to fix. Just a clean rag, some very fine polishing compound, like jewelers rouge, and a little elbow grease to buff it out. Probably wasn't really a scratch. Just some kind of mark that I mistook for a scratch when it didn't rub off with my finger.<br /><br />How to keep the blade in shape:<br />At the beginning of each season, run a file over the edge of the blade to make it straight and flat. If the blade is already in good shape, one or two passes should do it. Next, lightly run the file over each corner in a rounding motion to knock off the sharp corner. Last, run two swipes of the file flat on each side of the blade to knock off any burrs. When you run the file on the sides, if you notice any high spots that would show up as lighter and shinny, there may be a nick in the blade that needs more attention. Depending on how much you use the scraper, and how hard you use it, you may want to do this a couple of times during the season to keep the blade in shape.<br /><br />If you nick the blade:<br />Stop using the scraper right then.<br />If you put a nick in the blade, you have to file the sides of the blade until the nick is flat. It generally doesn't take much, and isn't hard. The hardest part is keeping your file flat along the flat side of the blade. But you'll find a way. If the nick is large, it might take, I don't know, 10 or 15 passes on each side. By large, I mean larger than a couple of grains of salt. I don't recall ever making a nick larger than about one grain of salt. After the sides are flat, run the file over the edge of the blade to make sure it is flat and straight. 2 to 4 good level passes should do it. A light pass or two to round off the corners, and a light pass or two on each side to take off any burrs. As long as the nick is no larger than about 1 or 2 grains of salt, you don't have to get the nick completely out. Just make sure the sides are flat with no high spots that could scratch. If in doubt, get yourself another good brass scraper.<br /><br />There are two reasons I take off one star for brass blade ice scrappers. One, they 'apparently' can 'LIGHTLY' scratch glass if not kept in proper condition. Two, the handle on these things always seem to break. That's the only reason I've ever replaced one of these, the broken handle. The one I'm using now, the handle has been broken for about 7 years. But, I can still use it, and I figure why get another one, the handle will just break anyway. My guess is that the breaking handle is the 'planned obsolescence,' because the blade can last forever with proper use. Because they are so durable, you tend to think they can break away any ice. But, they do have their limits.<br /><br />If you buy a brass blade scraper, and can figure a way to reinforce the handle, you just might make yourself a scraper that can last 50 years. No kidding.<br /><br />P.S. I should add that the manufacturer has to make the blade thick enough to be durable, yet thin enough to be flexible. | B000FW4LT4 | B000FW4LT4 |
280 | Broke easily on second use!! This is the first review written for this item on Amazon.<br /><br />See the pictures that I added at the right of the screen, near the beginning of the review section.<br /><br />I bought this thing because I wanted an extendable brush, and I like the idea of the metal locking pin to hold the extension in place. Those twist locks often just don't work well.<br /><br />I knew there were at least two weak points on this brush. One, the metal locking pin is held in place by plastic. An easy breaking point should you tap it on something, especially when cold. Two, the plastic locking mechanism for the pivoting head.<br /><br />Sure enough, the lock on the head broke with the second use. The snow was a bit stiff with the cold, so I was being careful. This thing broke with at best moderate pressure. I should have taken a closer look at that locking mechanism to see how delicate it was before I even used this thing. And sent it back. I have now measured the edge of the plastic locking mechanism and it is only 0.0935 inches. Less that 1 tenth inch. That plastic edge just won't stand up to normal use.<br /><br />Understand, the brush wasn't even cold. I had it in my house and took it outside to clean the car. So, never mind it being cold. The plastic was at full strength and it still broke very easily.<br /><br />I should also mention that the squeegee part is dense foam, not rubber, it won't last either if you brush it over ruff ice, such as on your windshield. Also, I consider the foam stuff to be a gimmick of the sort," Wow, look at that nice soft foam. It won't hurt my car." In reality, that foam will grab dust, dirt, and particles, much more easily than a rubber squeegee and drag them across your car.<br /><br />This is the second Hopkin's brush I've had within weeks. The first one had it's problems also, and was returned to Walmart. The pivoting head mechanism was different and hidden. Hard to tell how durable it was. If you look closely at the pictures, and read the complaints, it looks like nearly all, if not all, of these snow brushes by Hopkin's are made to break in one way or another. Designed obsolescence. ( I'm assuming that the simple brush and handle one's are more durable.) | B00F5VX3OO | B00F5VX3OO |
281 | Pleasantly surprised I needed this for my '99 Silverado, the "new body style" (same as the 2000 year model). The old bezel WILL break when you try to remove it to replace the broken PLASTIC retainer clips on the latch rods. I did apply some Silicone Grease to the contact points of the new bezel, to make sure to NOT break it during installation. It went in just fine, and looks just like the OEM. The price was definitely right, for a part that is truly "one-time use". Shame on Chevy for designing this kind of "Planned Obsolescence" in an otherwise fine vehicle. NO, I was NOT paid to write this review. | B07TYDLWML | B0876TXCF9 |
282 | Working for now. Seems to be fairly well made, at least by today's standards. I don't care for the PLASTIC flip lever!! It has become mandatory these days that Everything we buy has to have one of its critical parts made out of plastic -- Planned Obsolescence. But, this radiator cap is doing a good job so far. | B000B8N3J6 | B000B8N3J6 |
283 | EVERYTHING You Need To know about, well, Everything! A guy named Matt had posted the following 1 star review for AirStop;<br />>>>>>>>>>>>>>>><br />ByMatt Pavelleon May 1, 2015<br />Package Quantity: 1Style Name: SVerified Purchase<br />I tried to use this on a small (1cm) long tear on my Aerobed (actual Aerobed brand bed - not a generic) - which I should be (by all literature I've read) made of vinyl. This compound actually dissolved the vinyl! The tear grew larger and more jagged as applied the compound... no idea why.<br />>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>><br />As I began to answer his question I decided to fashion the answer as a review instead. I have meant to do this review for the last 4 years and never got to it, so here goes;<br />Matt, I’ll tell you why the hole grew larger and did not hold. But l am goin;<br /><br />1. AirStop is predominantly used on pinhile type leaks. With those leaks this stuff is nothing short of being the greatest miracle since the birth of you know who. I say this with the experience of 35 years owning a business that for the last 15 years included air mattress and white water repairs. I have probably done over 200. BTW, sometimes, NO MATTER WHAT, one cannot get ahead of leak and there is no choice but to stop resuccitating and start harvesting organs. Large patches of vinyl, large plugs of flocked vinyl, pumps, valves. corners etc. I have been successful at Dr. Frankenstein, radical rebuilds that involved replacinf complete 10" x 10" corners which was really like manufacturing one. These REALLY radical repairs have held until today (I don't send them back out after a repair unless it is fixed for life. By that, I mean that I won't put them back with their owners unless I am certain that the repaired section is more durable than an actual solid wall. There might be failured in the future of the bed but never at the repair point. That's because when I am done the area I repaired is actuallu much stronger than the rest of the bed. I have seen some of my patients come back to me after staying in service for a few years after my original repair and the bed has stretched and stretched but my repair patch still remains there at its original size. This actually becomes a problem after many years because it acts like a wood knot or better comparison would be it is similar to human scar tissue. It just does not stretch with the rest of the skin. At this point though people are thrilled they had it so long and just brought the beds back to show mebizarre results and to pass it along as an organ donor.<br /><br />At the same time, I have had pin holes that were so difficult to find that it took over an hour and SEVERAL sweeps of the mattress with a soapy spray bottle and had to put my heavy nephew on the mattress as well to force air out of the hole so it could be found. I have had a couple I had to combine spray bottles, big nephews and medical grade stethescopes to locate the hole. These holes were on solid vinyl not flocked, and not near seams or even high load points. And when I finally did find these microscopic holes no matter what I did I could not stop the leak. That includes being persistent and trying the repair from the pinhole stage and working outward applying larger and larger patches. When I his a seam, I stop and call the time of death (yes, we actually call it - long, funny story on how that started that I won't get into but to this day we act out the bereaved family and dejected Doctor while harvesting organs and cleaning up) Over the years I learned from science friends - as the manufacturers of these don't know squat about then - the couple of outliers that could not be saved despite the fact that the damage was microscopic were simply cases of a bunch of molecules that were destined to come together and be crappy because the nature of nature is just like that sometimes. It is variance in materials down to the molecular level that either fid not act well with its molecular neighbors or were actually harmful little variants. Sort of the cancer cells of vinyl. The point is that no method can be declared to ALWAYS work or NEVER work because for different people in different climates and different body weights that bough matresses from different sellers who stored theit matressses in different sea levels and delivered them in different trucks and were unboxed by… well, you get the point.<br /><br />So while there is nothing foolproof, and on some repairs a piece of scotch tape will hold for a year (yep, I’ve seen it), there in one thing that is constant and undeniable in my coparatively enormous sample size of air matress repairs, and that is the fact that this exact product, the little tiny Coghlan’s Air Stop in the Green Bottle is vastly, far and away, undeniably, without question, most assuredly, absolutely, fo’ sho’ EXPONENTIALLY more successful in successful, permanent repairs than ANY other method. Exponentially better than the cheap kit that comes with the matress and all the way up the line to exponentially better than any $100 REI field repair kit. Every DIY hack you have ever seen on the internet for sure may have worked perfectly for that person so they will declkare for example that the “Walmart Innertube repair kit #4 with rubber Schwinn 3cm patches finished with a glaze of Locktite double compound rubber epoxy is GUARANTEED to work!” Well that’s just plain human bias at work. But I have NO DOUBT he thinks he reinvented the wheel. I believe most of you reading this have been utterly flummoxed by stubborn repairs the almost, nearly, practically held. You were SURE it held but the next morning that dreaded pliability softened when you poked it with your finger. I know many of us did not even want to poke it the next day because they just could not handle it if the air mattress was not firm. I also have NO DOUBT that people have killed family members in domestic arguments gone bad because after hours, perhaps days, they either could not get the tiniest of holes fixed or they woke up during the night sinking after they thought it was fixed and family or a friend said something the wrong way or burned a piece of toast and that set off a fit of rage that led to a homicide. Likely that these sociopaths would have snapped over something else eventually but the point is that I am SURE people have died at the hands of someone deep into an Air Matress repair that’s not going well!!<br /><br />Getting back to the response to the poster I was crafting to her before I decided to make a more inlusive revire of AirStop. We have determined that this stuff is the holy water of AirMatress repairs one MUST follow 2 basic rules and never vary, If this is not followed then you have relegated this liquid Nirvana to also-rand status.<br />This entire wall of text can be summarized with the following tips/instructions;<br />A tear MUST be fixed with a patch. Always, 100% of the time.<br />A pinhole MUST be reaired with NO patch. Just the free floating application method. No patch even if the hole is on a seam. If you stick with these general rules then the rest is actually rather forgiving. I have used heavy duty Ziploc plastic bags for patches (in the field with no other materisl), and the repair has hel through several subsequent trips I am told. In fact I was sent a pic of my baggie repair recently and may start incorporating a clear, thinner plastic for a specific tear that’s common near the internal pump of a certain Intex.<br /><br />A guy named Matt had posted the following 1 star review for AirStop;<br />>>>>>>>>>>>>>>><br />Matt Pavelleon May 1, 2015<br />I tried to use this on a small (1cm) long tear on my Aerobed (actual Aerobed brand bed - not a generic) - which I should be (by all literature I've read) made of vinyl. This compound actually dissolved the vinyl! The tear grew larger and more jagged- as applied the compound... no idea why.<br />>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>><br />As I began to answer his question I decided to fashion the answer as a review instead. I have meant to do this review for the last 4 years and never got to it, so here goes;<br /><br />--------------------------------------<br />Matt, I’ll tell you why the hole grew larger and did not hold. But I am going to digress first.<br /><br />First, AirStop is King with nearly 100% success rate at repairing predominantly pinhole and rounded jab type holes causing your leak. With those leaks this stuff is nothing short of being the greatest miracle since the birth of you know who. I say this with the experience of 35 years running a foundation which among other things rehabilitated Air Mattresses almost from the beginning. In the past 10 years it became a specialty which led us last year placing our 2,000th donated or rehabilitated Air Mattress to housing authorities to redistribute nationwide. Running the foundation has meant that I have had hands on or witnessed over 1,000 bags (our term for the mattress). Further, my nephew supplies and organizes a large white water club and I have seen or helped with a couple of dozen large, white water bag repairs. If bag rehabilitation were like the NFL I am sure that I might be one of, if not THE top player in the league and I would be among the Top 3 highest paid baggers. To say I am a shoe in to be among the first round of inductees to the bag Hall Of Fame would not be an overstatement, but rather a proclamation of fact. Sorry to sound like I am a braggart but it is important that I convey how much time and experience I have in the Bag trenches. It’s even possible that if Bagging were actually a respected profession or sport that Queen Elizabeth herself would agree that as far as Bags go, I would be a Royal. She would probably Knight me like she did Richard Branson or David Attenborough based solely on the acknowledgement of said Royalty.<br /><br />OK, enough about me for now. At least now if you leave any comments you will know to be respectful and referring to me as Sir would be acceptable – actually, not acceptable, but preferable, got it?<br />Before anything else I want to clear up one fact.<br />Fact: NO MATTER WHAT method you use, there will be a certain amount of Bags that will never hold air properly again. This means that a failure of a particular method or product such as AirStop is NOT necessarily an indication that the method or products are failures. Bad things happen to good Bags sometimes and the finest surgeons and elixirs were never going to work anyways. This is a factor of both Mother Nature and probably to a MUCH greater level a combination of Evil and planned obsolescence which we will discuss another time. However, in many of these inoperable cases, if you as the practitioner cannot EVER get ahead of leak, then you need to remain composed and do the right thing! Now is not the time for grief. There will be ample opportunity to mourn later and you need to remember that there are pallets of other Bags just waiting their turns for you. So just to Call It. Your only viable option is to stop resuscitating and start harvesting Bag organs.<br /><br />Specifically, SLICE out Large patches of body and side vinyl, large plugs of flocked vinyl, pumps, and valves, corners etc. I have been successful at Dr. Frankenstein, radical rebuilds that involved replacing complete 10" x 10" corners which was really like manufacturing one. 100% of the time that someone has touched base with me after one of these miraculous resections, I have been told these REALLY radical repairs have held until today (I don't send them back out after a repair unless it is fixed for life). By that, I mean that I won't put them back with their original owners or send them on to meet their new foster parents unless I am certain that the repaired section is more durable than an actual solid wall. There might be failure in the future of the bed but never at the repair point. That's because when I am done the area I repaired is actually much stronger than the rest of the bed. I have seen some of my patients come back to me after staying in service for a few years after my original repair and the bed has stretched and stretched but my repair patch still remains there at its original size. This actually becomes a problem after many years because it acts like a wood knot or better comparison would be it is similar to human scar tissue. It just does not stretch with the rest of the skin. As its body goes through the normal elderly process of stretching and sagging it remains taut and supple. This makes for a very ugly Bag with big puffy bellies that are pinched and restricted by patches. The very best analogy is that the patches are the hull and the bags are the big White and Yellow popcorn outer part. The “problem” is that it is hard to sleep on popcorn so many times the very patches that let them live also contributed to several years of prolonged deformity and eventual death.<br />Honestly, I do love when one of these come back in the door. At that point people are so thrilled they had it so long and just brought the beds back to show me bizarre results and to pass it along as an organ donor.<br /><br />So there are those radical reconstruction surgeries but on the opposite end is what I alluded to earlier. We have had pin holes that were so difficult to find that it took over an hour and SEVERAL sweeps of the mattress with a soapy spray bottle and had to put my heavy nephew on the mattress as well to force air out of the hole so it could be found. I have had many that in order to locate the wound we had to combine spray bottles, big nephews and medical grade stethoscopes to locate the hole. These holes were on solid vinyl not flocked, and not near seams or even high load points. And when we finally did find these microscopic holes no matter what we did, we could not stop the leak. That includes being persistent and trying the repair from the pinhole stage and working outward applying larger and larger patches. When we hit a seam, I stop and call the time of death just as I instructed you guys earlier to know when to just give up because it ain’t gonna work (yes, we actually call it - long, funny story on how that started that I won't get into but to this day we act out the bereaved family and dejected Doctor while harvesting organs and cleaning up)<br />Over the years I learned from science friends - as the manufacturers of these don't know squat about them - that these occasional of outliers that could not be saved despite the fact that the damage was microscopic were simply cases of a bunch of molecules that were destined to come together and be crappy simply because the nature of nature is just like that sometimes. It is variance in materials down to the molecular level that either fid not act well with its molecular neighbors or were actually harmful little variants. Sort of the cancer cells of vinyl. The point is that no method can be declared to ALWAYS work or NEVER work because for different people in different climates and different body weights that bough mattresses from different sellers who stored their mattresses in different sea levels and delivered them in different trucks and were unboxed by… well, you get the point.<br /><br />So while there is nothing foolproof because not all bags can even be fixed, on some other repairs a piece of scotch tape will hold for a year (yep, I’ve seen it). there is one thing that is constant and undeniable in my comparatively enormous sample size of air mattress repairs, and that is the fact that this exact product, the little tiny Coghlan’s Air Stop in the Green Bottle is vastly, far and away, undeniably, without question, most assuredly, absolutely, fo’ sho’ EXPONENTIALLY more successful in successful, permanent repairs than ANY other method. I’m talking 90% fived withExponentially better than the cheap kit that comes with the mattress and all the way up the line to exponentially better than any $100 REI field repair kit. Every DIY hack you have ever seen on the internet for sure may have worked perfectly for that person so they will declare for example that the “Walmart Inner tube repair kit #4 with rubber Schwinn 3cm patches finished with a glaze of Loctite double compound rubber epoxy is GUARANTEED to work!” Well that’s just plain human bias at work. But I have NO DOUBT he thinks he reinvented the wheel. I believe most of you reading this have been utterly flummoxed by stubborn repairs the almost, nearly, practically held. You were SURE it held but the next morning that dreaded pliability softened when you poked it with your finger. I know many of us did not even want to poke it the next day because they just could not handle it if the air mattress was not firm. I also have NO DOUBT that people have killed family members in domestic arguments gone bad because after hours, perhaps days, they either could not get the tiniest of holes fixed or they woke up during the night sinking after they thought it was fixed and family or a friend said something the wrong way or burned a piece of toast and that set off a fit of rage that led to a homicide. Likely that these sociopaths would have snapped over something else eventually but the point is that I am SURE people have died at the hands of someone deep into an Air Mattress repair that’s not going well!!<br />Getting back to the response to the poster I was crafting to her before I decided to make a more inclusive review of AirStop, here i. We have determined that this stuff is the holy water of Air Mattress repairs one MUST follow 2 basic rules and never vary, if this is not followed then you have relegated this liquid Nirvana to also-rand status.<br />This entire wall of text can be summarized with the following tips/instructions;<br />A tear MUST be fixed with a patch. Forget what the directions say about using AirStop without a patch for small tears. Always, 100% of the times use it for ALL tears. The simple way to know whether it is a tear or a hole is for you to look at the hole. If the naked human eye can see any sort of line vertical or horizontal line in the wound. If your naked eye can’t see a separation like a tear, then and only then can this non-linear, rounded wound be considered a hole and just plain AirStop with no patch.<br />A pinhole MUST be repaired with NO patch. Just dab and apply the AirStop freely and direct on the hole and about 1/8th of an inch out from the center of the hole. For your initial repair do NOT use a patch even if the hole is on a seam. If you stick with these general rules then the rest is actually rather forgiving. I have used heavy duty Ziploc plastic bags for patches at a family reunion (in the field with no other material available), and the repair has held through several subsequent trips I am told. In fact I was sent a pic of my baggie repair recently and may start incorporating a clear, thinner plastic for a specific tear that’s common near the internal pump of a certain Intex.<br />Tying this all back to Matt and his mostly existential pondering of “why”<br />>>>>>>>>>>>><br /> ByMatt Pavelleon May 1, 2015<br />The tear grew larger and more jagged as applied the compound... no idea why.<br />>>>>>>>>>>>><br /><br />Very simple, Matt. You did not use a patch.<br />That’s it folks. I don’t know if anyone actually read all this which makes me think of the tree falling in the forest analogy. Sigh. Anyways, I am now off to do a Reddit AMA, wish me luck!!<br /><br />Hahaha just kidding! EVEN REDDIT does not have enough losers that care about asking any questions to the Bob Griese of Bags. | B001Q891SW | B001Q891SW |
284 | Nice, but..... These are beautiful but have an Achilles heel - the rubber on the shifting side comes apart. The foot pegs were far from being worn out but with the way the rubber is attached, it breaks loose from the metal because of the way it is inserted into the metal foot peg. This might be built in obsolescence because the overall way these are made, the metal would last forever. If you don't care that part of the rubber comes loose or is lost, then don't worry about this comment. These are good strong foot pegs and will last a long time except for the rubber under your shifting foot. | B0B7CZ84YP | B0B7CZ84YP |
285 | They fix the problem I had with heater These are perfect to replace the obturators that eventually go bad on your Chrysler 200 year 2011 (talkn about programed obsolescence), The whole design of Chrysler is really bad and it is a pain to put them in (if you never have done it before). | B07RQJM5HP | B07RQJM5HP |
286 | Perfect Replacement for the OEM Original Carb Tried to rebuild the original Troy Bilt carb on a TB22EC trimmer, but it was too gunked up to even bother with.....and the trimmer just wouldn't run no matter what I did. This inexpensive little clone of the original was the perfect replacement. Simple to bolt up and hook to pre-existing fuel lines, this little carb fired the engine immediately, and didn't even need any mixture tweaking. As much as I generally dislike Troy Bilt products (too much planned obsolescence), the TB22EC now runs perfectly with this little Harbot clone. Very Impressive and at a price barely higher than the cost of a carb rebuild kit.....absolutely perfect! | B079DQBHMC | B079DQBHMC |
287 | Great "Hard to Find" Solution for Narrow Fit 6mm Inserts I have a 1993 Infiniti J30, which has very unorthodox wiper arms which can't be retrofit with all of the new blade assemblies. I can't find any replacement arms, so I always have to use 6mm "Narrow Fit" rubber insert refills. I used to be able to find these in auto parts stores, but they are becoming more rare all the time. I am very happy that I found these online, coupled with the fact that the same inserts will fit both the driver's side and passenger's side, by allowing me to snap off the end, to the right length needed, which is relatively easy to do. I recommend inserting the whole insert into the arm assembly first, and then using needle nose pliers at the snap off point, with another set of pliers on the opposite side of the snap off point, and bending back and forth until the metal rails give way, inside of the rubber flange. Then use scissors to cut through the rubber that is left "trailing" out of the end of the arms near the motor assembly. Functions perfectly for anyone who needs 6mm rubber inserts. Be sure to check or measure the specs on your specific vehicle's arm dimensions. The critical point in reference is the "C" shaped or claw shaped brackets, through which the insert slides. The 6mm is the width of the interior clearance inside the "C" shape. Many newer arm brackets are wider than the narrow fit 6mm inserts.<br /><br />Since wiper blades seem to never last beyond about 3 months (due to UV rays from the sun, deteriorating the rubber...obvious planned obsolescence by all blade manufacturers to force you to constantly replenish their product), I purchased 5 pairs of these at one time and keep them in my trunk. I think the "Break to Fit" feature is a perfect solution and it works very well. | B000CB6ADS | B000CB6ADS |
288 | Ball Joint Better than OEM this one came with grease gun attachment to grease the CV ball. Land Rover didn't think you needed a way to service it.<br />Planed obsolescence.<br />Would buy from again. | B009HQPBLQ | B009HQPBLQ |
289 | Controlled Obsolescence Won't stop breaking. Having to replace the door handle 5 times a year. | B000B68BZ4 | B000B68BZ4 |
290 | To bad Chrysler can't make a van as good as this part! 2014 dodge grand caravan, described best by the term "planned obsolescence."<br />This part fixes the issues caused by the people who built this van.<br />Great upgrade to fix the incompetence of Chrysler! | B09ZDW88R6 | B0CG2XJV3J |
291 | This is a perfect example of bad design by auto manufacturers for built ... This heater core fit in the truck. The installation was extremely difficult due to the requirement to remove the dash and the age of the plastic connections. That's not the core's problem. This is a perfect example of bad design by auto manufacturers for built in obsolescence. Why does it take $1000 of labor to install a $100 part? | B000CH3ETU | B000CH3ETU |
292 | You can do it! These are difficult to do but can be done. Long needle nose pliers, 1/4” ratchet, light, & calm.<br /> Ford should be ashamed, the design is built in obsolescence. | B00ED46XHS | B00ED46XHS |
293 | Very water resistant when installed per instructions. Butyl is the way to go when replacing standard jute auto sound insulation. Detroit would probably use it if it did not take longer to install than pre-cut, jute backed rubber. Jute absorbs condensate like a sponge, which eventually rots the floorpan. It's labor efficient for Detroit as well as planned obsolescence I suppose... | B07BLSP8JV | B0C3WNT5QV |
294 | Planned Obsolescence? Both burnt out in under a year. Both lamps died in under 12 months. They were nice while they lasted, but not noticeably brighter.<br /><br />I lost a high beam lamp at the end of 2016 and replaced those and the low beams at the same time with the same brand.<br /><br />The first of these low beams died in early November 2017 and the second died within two weeks of its sibling. Fortunately, I still had the two OEM bulbs (2010) in next to the spare, so I'm using these again. | B00U1OIESK | B00U1OIESK |
295 | The best planned obsolescence can buy It exactly what you need when the one you have breaks. Which it will because the Shure engineers want to prove they at least got an A in planned obsolescence. | B00IYWATBQ | B00IYWATBQ |
296 | A classic! My father discovered the Fantastic scraper at least 40 years ago and told everyone. In those days, you could get any color you wanted as long as it was brown. That original one disappeared somewhere along the line, but I am still using ones that are at least 30 years old. Tell me something else that does its job perfectly and is indestructible. So much for planned obsolescence. Glad to know they are still available, but the ones I have don't look like needing replacement any time soon. | B000FW4LT4 | B000FW4LT4 |
297 | Not a good design. These original equipment valves are a joke. While they work initially the design is such that they will almost certainly fail prematurely. Designed obsolescence in my opinion. | B0012P1SA8 | B0012P1SA8 |
298 | 2000 Ford Explorer Once the armrest and hinge were removed from vehicle it only took ten minutes to remove and replace the broken plate and hinge.. Great fit and price. Dealer shipped right away. Only thought is why Ford didn't reinforce the plate so the plastic doesn't break. Planned obsolescence I guess. | B008ZO7SIA | B008ZO7SIA |
299 | Textbook Planned Obsolescence Purchased this September 2014, by June 2015 it was dead. Fortunately still under warranty so I sent it back and Rug Doctor replaced it. When I purchased this, the manual said you can leave the clean water side full and use it when you need it. When I got it back, Rug Doctor said you have to dump the clean water side because it will leak into the machine and cause it to fail.<br /><br />This past weekend the spray nozzle broke. Half of it went shooting across the floor while I was using it. From what I have found online, I see it is common for this part to break.<br /><br />I emailed Rug Doctor to see if they sell replacement of the entire hand unit. I included that the machine is no longer under warranty.<br /><br />Rug Doctor's response was how to use the warranty. There was a name at the end of the email, but it read just like a scripted auto reply. Again, reading up on Rug Doctor's customer service confirms when your machine is no longer under warranty, Rug Doctor is ZERO help.<br /><br />So yes, this spot worked pretty well while it worked, but I would not recommend it - unless you want to buy it over and over again. It is not built to last any longer than the warranty period. | B00T31O22Y | B07Q41X3R6 |
300 | Ford 9L3Z-9927936-B - HOUSING Ford 9L3Z-9927936-B - HOUSING original factory part failed on my truck after just over 6 years of owning the vehicle. I bought a replacement, and it failed in less than three weeks. I ordered this one again, and this time - fingers crossed, it has lasted a little over two months so far. It seems this device is a flawed product from the factory. Designing obsolescence into such an important door on the truck when it comes to aesthetics, so they really should work on that, but the seller was quick, price was only ten cents more than the part from June, and it arrived on time, so Thanks so far! | B0031B1YWI | B0031B1YWI |
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